Wednesday, August 12, 2015

South Korea: Beautiful and confounding

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August 12, 2015

This summer I visited Seoul for the first time in 20 years to report an article about Samsung and its 47-year-old leader, Jay Y. Lee, whose incapacitated father effectively has left him in control of the country's most powerful conglomerate.

Samsung is massive. I visited a handful of its most dynamic businesses and barely scratched the surface of this mighty company. Seoul, South Korea's capital, is massive too, a gargantuan, complicated city. What blew my mind about Seoul was how beautiful it has become, especially compared to how I remembered it in the mid-1990s. What was a dreary city with chockablock architecture and undistinguished cuisine has become a dynamic, vibrant, fascinating and downright delicious cosmopolitan world capital. (The New York Times recently wrote a love letter to the best of old and new Seoul.) With its lovely mountains, fashionable inhabitants, and easy-to-use subway, I came to think of Seoul, once I city I never wanted to visit again, as a place I'd like to return as a tourist.

South Korea is beautiful, to be sure, and confounding too. Despite the obvious success of what has become the 14thlargest economy in the world, I can't recall visiting a more pessimistic place. Samsung, for example, is simultaneously a story of epochal accomplishment and a big bundle of insecurity. As I explained in my article, the company badly wants to be known as more than a copier. And yet, wanting to be like one's neighbor—or even admired adversary—is deeply ingrained in the Korean culture. After returning home I happened across this delightful, if troubling, article in the New Yorker about why South Korea is the plastic-surgery capital of the world. Journalist Patricia Marx, who has a new bookout, describes the desire by many modern Koreans to look like someone else. She might have been describing a Korean smartphone maker whose gadgets look a lot like those sold by the competition in California.

As for the pessimism, Koreans have many concerns. Where I saw a vibrant economy of some 50 million people, Koreans see a sluggish growth engine overshadowed by neighboring China. (I tried out a line with several businesspeople that if Canada can thrive as an appendage to the U.S. economy surely South Korea can happily do the same with China. I was met with shrugs.)

Even the symbol of South Korea's industrial success, the conglomerates known as chaebols, have gotten a bad rap of late. Koreans blame the chaebol for holding back the entrepreneurial economy, a widely held opinion nicely captured in a recent NPR report from Seoul.

Here's hoping your travels today take you someplace exciting.

Adam Lashinsky
@adamlashinsky
adam_lashinsky@fortune.com

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Today's Fortune CEO Daily was produced by:
John Kell
@johnnerkell 
john.kell@fortune.com
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